Eight wines to enjoy in the summer
Some of my favourite seasonal styles are featured here, starting with a vivid white that's so nice they named it Gavi twice. Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi is a terrific introduction to the cortese grape and the satisfying wines it's capable of producing in Piedmont. There are also two different approaches to sauvignon blanc from top Canadian producers, Hidden Bench and Spearhead. They offer texture and balance as well as the traditional payload of flavour intensity you'd expect from the grape variety, which tastes even better when the sun is high in the sky.
Admittedly, warming temperatures prompt me to reach for lighter and brighter styles of wine. But there's no controlling when liquor stores release special bottles. I might not be in the mood to enjoy a glass of Brunello while sitting on the back deck in the coming weeks, but I know I'd better buy the current release from Barbi now as it's not likely to be still available when sweater weather returns.
Bartier Bros. Pristine Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2024 (Canada), $19.99
Rating: 88
Bartier's Pristine label reflects the replacement wines made with grapes grown in Washington's Columbia Valley, in this instance from 40-year-old vines in the Wahluke Slope appellation. Rosé made with cabernet sauvignon can be structured and savoury in nature, but this leans towards the juicy spectrum. A combination of cherry, berry and spice contribute to its delicious, summery flavour. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 1.5 g/l r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia or direct, bartierbros.com
Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2019 (Italy), $58.95
Rating: 94
The Colombini family has been producing Brunello at Fattori dei Barbi since 1892 and were the first to export its wines to Europe, America and Asia. The 2019 vintage is celebrated by winemakers in Montalcino for delivering an abundance of top quality sangiovese grapes. The result is this youthful red that shows classically structured character marked by appealing cherry and berry fruit character. More bottle age will enhance the complexity and fragrance of this stylish, medium-bodied Tuscan wine. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2040. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $57 in Quebec.
Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2024 (Canada), $24.95
Rating: 89
Former winemaker Marlize Beyers has returned to Flat Rock as a consultant winemaker, overseeing the tightly focused portfolio (pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling) of this family-owned Jordan winery. This estate bottled pinot offers a mix of floral, berry and oak-derived spice flavours as part of a dry and structured red. Serving in a proper large bowl, balloon-shaped Burgundy glass helps to coax more fruit and fragrance from this youthful expression. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario at the above price or direct, flatrockcellars.com, various prices in Alberta.
Graham Beck Méthode Cap Classique Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Rosé Sparkling (South Africa), $24.95
Rating: 91
Based in Robertson, Graham Beck consistently offers great value bottle fermented sparkling wines. Made in a crowd-pleasing style, this enjoyable rosé is based on (54/46) mix of pinot noir and chardonnay that were fermented separately before being blended for secondary fermentation and aging on the lees (dead yeast cells). This is a dry and nicely balanced bubbly, with cherry and plum flavours contributing to its easy-going appeal. This has 12 per cent ABV and 7 g/l r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2022 (Canada), $29.95
Rating: 93
The Rosomel vineyard was established by grape grower Roman Prydatkewycz on Niagara's Beamsville Bench in 1976. It's been owned by Hidden Bench Estate Winery since 2002, providing the grapes for several distinctive single-vineyard wines, such as this invigorating and complex barrel fermented sauvignon blanc. Made in a dry and medium-bodied style, this straddles the line between richness and refreshment in the most satisfying manner. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, hiddenbenchwinery.com, $35.25 in Quebec (2021 vintage).
Spearhead Winery Dual Citizen Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (Canada), $29
Rating: 91
Best known for its exciting estate grown pinot noir and chardonnays from the Okanagan, Spearhead embraced the opportunity to produce sauvignon blanc from Yakima Valley as part of its Dual Citizen label. A lack of grapes after a serious winter frost in 2024 led winemaker Grant Stanley to explore options in the Columbia Valley. This conveys textbook citrus and herbal notes as part of a mouth-watering white wine with refreshing acidity and a crisp finish. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, spearheadwinery.com
Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi 2023 (Italy), $22.95
Rating: 90
The distinctive curvy container used by Villa Sparina was inspired by an old bottle found in the cellar of this family-owned winery in Piedmont. The unusual shape helps attract attention to this satisfying regional white wine made from the cortese grape. Expect a refreshing mix of citrus, peach and floral notes with a rich texture and lingering chalky finish. This has 12.4 per cent ABV and 5 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $29.98 in British Columbia (Everything Wine), various prices in Alberta, $31 in Nova Scotia (Bishop's Cellar).
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet/Shiraz/Malbec/Merlot 2022 (Australia), $19.95
Rating: 90
Wynns first produced this cabernet-shiraz blend from Coonawarra in 1969 and has continued to evolve its style, adding merlot and malbec into the mix of grape varieties over the years. The red stripe on the label is seen as a reference to the region's unique terra rossa soil – a dusty mix of clay and limestone that helps to produce vibrant and ripe red wines. The 2022 vintage shows a core of rich cherry, cassis and blueberry fruit with cedar and floral accents that's ready to drink. This has 14 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available in Ontario.
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