Joanne Milner Of Garrard On The Ascot Gold Cup, Craftsmanship And Royal Heritage
Regarded as the oldest jewelry house in the world, Garrard was established in 1735 and with that, comes a rich and storied past. Having been appointed the first official Crown Jeweler in 1843 by Queen Victoria, the house has had strong links with the British royal family ever since.
As for exceptional headwear, cue the infamous Imperial State Crown and an array of tiaras that have been worn by Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Anne, and Princess Beatrice on their wedding days, there's also the Sovereign's Sceptre with Cross, which dates back to 1661 and modified over the years, including the addition of the largest clear-cut diamond in the world in 1910, to more recently, Princes Diana's 12-carat Ceylon sapphire and diamond engagement ring which has been passed onto Catherine, Princess of Wales.
Queen Elizabeth II with crown, orb and sceptre, 2 June 1953, (1962). Coronation portrait: the Queen wears the Imperial State Crown, made in 1937 for the coronation of her father George VI, and holds the Sovereign's Sceptre with Cross, and the Sovereign's Orb, both dating from 1661. The crown, orb and sceptre are part of the Royal Collection at the Tower of London. From "The Crown Jewels in the Tower of London", by Martin Holmes, F.S.A.. [Her Majesty's Stationery, London, 1962]. Creator: Unknown. (Photo by The Print Collector/Heritage Images via Getty Images)
As well as fine jewels, the house also has ties with Royal Ascot, particularly through crafting its trophies, and the infamous Ascot Gold Cup. This year is a particularly special year, as it sees the combination of two major milestones that form part of The Gold Cup's story, 290 years of Garrard and 200 years of the beloved Royal Procession at Ascot.
'The Royal Ascot trophies are a true expression of Garrard's craftsmanship, combining traditional silversmithing techniques with modern innovation to create something both meaningful and lasting,' says Claire Scott, Design and Development Director at Garrard.
ASCOT, ENGLAND - JUNE 20: Queen Elizabeth II holds the Gold Cup and Prince Andrew, Duke of York after Ryan Moore riding Estimate won The Gold Cup during Ladies' Day on day three of Royal Ascot at Ascot Racecourse on June 20, 2013 in Ascot, England. (Photo byfor Ascot Racecourse)
On this year's iteration, she says, "it's not only a symbol of sporting excellence, but a celebration of shared history, created to be treasured long after the moment of victory.' Respecting its heritage, while looking to the future, Claire shares, 'At Garrard, we do not replicate the past. We evolve it, using our heritage as a foundation to create designs that are relevant today and respectful of where we have come from.'
King Charles III and the Gold Cup during day three of Royal Ascot at Ascot Racecourse, Berkshire. Picture date: Thursday June 22, 2023. (Photo by David Davies/PA Images via Getty Images)
Royal Ascot is in full swing, and today, on Ladies' Day, the Gold Cup will be awarded. To mark the occasion, Joanne Milner, Garrard's CEO discusses the heritage of this storied jewelry house, craftsmanship, and the future of legacy luxury.
Joanne Milner: Garrard is the ultimate example that you can invest in luxury and that it will last forever. As one of the few independent jewellers in the world, and the oldest amongst them, Garrard has the best of both worlds; being one of the most historic luxury brands in the world, while still keeping true to the values of a 'family jeweller'. As such, every Garrard piece is iconic and is built to last forever. It's inspiring to think that in another 290 years people will be walking through our doors, enquiring about a piece of Garrard that we made today. Perhaps they will have just inherited it, and are keen to know its story. And there will be a story for them to discover. That is Garrard's true USP, and it's where I see it shaping our future as a legacy luxury brand. Every piece of Garrard has a genuine and meaningful story that can be brought to life, and can endure – no matter what.
LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM - MAY 27: Queen Elizabeth II (wearing 'The Diamond Diadem' made for King George IV by Rundell, Bridge and Rundell in 1820, 'The Coronation Earrings' and 'The Coronation Necklace' made by Garrard for Queen Victoria in 1858) travels down The Mall (Photo by Max Mumby/Indigo/Getty Images)
JM: Garrard's legacy of storytelling is vital to our clients. It is not just the beauty of each of our pieces, it is the meaning behind it.
As the oldest jewellery house in the world and the ultimate legacy jeweller, our heritage organically attracts a new generation looking to make their own mark. This combined with the iconic Garrard designs which have consistently proven to stand the test of time, reborn and refashioned for the muses of today, maintains our cultural relevance and enduring appeal.
We've observed how the world is returning to heritage luxuries. As lives become increasingly fast-paced and transactional, the authenticity and grounding of heritage brands such as Garrard take centre stage. Our everlasting craftsmanship is what enables pieces to be tailored and redesigned, meaning each piece can act as a living legacy constantly being shaped by the hands it is passed onto.
As we look to the future of jewellery and our house, Garrard's heritage and 290 years of refining our craft are our greatest strengths. We are a living, breathing, house – not a museum – whose clients' real-life stories of love, family, beauty, and strength continue to be written. It is a responsibility we take seriously.
LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM - JUNE 03: Diana, Princess Of Wales As Patron Of The English National Ballet, Attends 'Swan Lake' At London's Royal Albert Hall Wearing A Necklace By Garrard. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
JM: It is a huge privilege to be custodian of the oldest jewellery house in the world. Even now, 10 years since I joined Garrard, I continue to discover new stories from our past. It is my responsibility to make sure Garrard is here in another 290 years from now. Not perhaps my biggest learning, but something I'm constantly working and striving towards, is how to balance Garrard the historic brand with Garrard the business of today and the future. It's a powerful symbiotic relationship. Neither one can grow or survive without the other. My most vital task as CEO is constantly ensuring we're meeting the needs of both. While of course the ideal linear trajectory is rarely achieved, as long as both are moving in the right direction, I am happy!
Craftsmanship at Garrard
JM: My vision is to set the standard for what a modern heritage brand can be. I really want to focus on our story, and the storytelling inherent in luxury jewellery, which is our greatest asset. In a world of so many trends that come and go, Garrard truly is an iconic constant. A storied world of luxury, our archival vault is home to some of the greatest stories ever told. Founded on the principles of heritage and luxury, our commitment to craftsmanship and design will shape our future. Top of my mind is sustainability, a journey to ensure that every part of our brand and business caters to the next generation of jewellery owners; from altering the exquisite ancestral pieces passed onto them, to creating versatile yet everlasting new icons that can be taken apart and built back up again. It is the principles of longevity and endurance that the great historical luxury houses excel at. There couldn't be a better time than now to call on them.
Craftsmanship at Garrard
JM: It is both. While the legacy pieces are part of what puts us into a league of our own today, to continue to keep Garrard in this singular position we must continue to be relevant by creating new 'moments' and 'pieces' that will write the next chapter of the legacy.
Heritage is at the heart of who we are, but it is the way we reinterpret and evolve that legacy through bold design and modern innovation that truly sets us apart. His Majesty the King's Coronation was a moment that perfectly captured this balance. It is one of my proudest moments since joining Garrard. It beautifully showcased the power and longevity of our brand. Pieces we designed and crafted hundreds of years ago were worn alongside pieces from our current collections. It showed that a Garrard piece of jewellery is as desirable today as it always has been. Our jewellery is for now, as well as forever.
LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM - MAY 06: King Charles III and Queen Camilla wave from the balcony of Buckingham Palace following their coronation at Westminster Abbey on May 6, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Max Mumby/Indigo/Getty Images)
JM: Iconic in every sense, one of my favourite pieces has to be Princess Diana's sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. What I love most about this ring is that she chose it herself. There is a personal connection, an emotion, and a self-determined spirit to be admired.
ARGENTINA - NOVEMBER 24: A Portrait Of Princess Diana Looking Pensive Whilst Visiting The British American Benevolent Society During Her Official Tour Of Argentina. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
My other favourite piece is deeply personal. It is my own Garrard piece, a different type of gemstone cluster ring. It features my favourite stone. A sapphire. But not the deep blue most people are familiar with. Mine is a Padparadscha sapphire, a rare variety with an incredible mix of fiery orange and pink hues. It epitomises Garrard's expertise in sourcing the finest and rarest coloured gemstones. And for me, it captures the unique and colourful spirit that we are known for. It is this spirit that will continue to define Garrard for generations.
Royal Ascot 2025 runs until Saturday the 21st of June, with the Royal Ascot Gold Cup being awarded today.
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