Latest news with #Prada-Kolhapuri
India Today
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- India Today
Fashion veteran Sunil Sethi on Prada-Kolhapuri row: ‘We deserve acknowledgement'
'India is the global flavour of the season,' Fashion Design Council of India's chairman Sunil Sethi proudly told India Today about the ongoing Prada-Kolhapuri Italian fashion giant, during Paris Fashion Week, presented a collection featuring Kolhapuri chappals - a GI-tagged Indian footwear craft - but without any acknowledgement of its roots. The craft originated in India, in the regions of Maharashtra and Karnataka, hundreds of years ago and continues to be a timeless style staple for both modern and traditional fashion enthusiasts. Prada, at the show, labelled them as mere 'leather sandals'. India's Kolhapuri Chappal at Prada SS26 menswear show, but the luxury label initially called them just 'leather sandals'. (Photos: Prada) advertisementPrada's move stood in stark contrast to Louis Vuitton, who celebrated India in more ways than one at their show in Paris, making our country the actual showstopper. After a major online uproar and also a formal nudge from the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), Prada did eventually give Kolhapuris their due. A Prada spokesperson eventually said, 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship.'Nevertheless, digs from celebrities as well as the fashion world continue on the Prada-Kolhapuri row. Kareena Kapoor Khan and Neena Gupta recently took cheeky digs at Prada with their Instagram it goes on, Sethi told India Today that this season everyone is drawing inspiration from Indian craft and culture. 'We want that to continue, but we deserve acknowledgement,' the FDCI chairman said.'I'm not saying it's necessarily an IP infringement, but I do believe we deserve acknowledgement. If someone says, 'Yes, we were inspired by India or by Kolhapuris,' that's good enough for me. And Prada did admit to it. So, in a way, this controversy has actually brought more attention to Kolhapuris,' Sethi said.'They're more widely known now,' he several reports suggest Prada will hold a meeting via video conferencing with office-bearers of the MACCIA and artisans on July 11. The luxury brand is expected to discuss a possible collaboration with Kolhapuri artisans, to explore possibilities of taking the Kolhapuri chappal to the global for Sunil Sethi, he announced the 18th edition of Hyundai India Couture Week in New Delhi at a press conference held in the capital on Monday. The highly anticipated fashion extravaganza will begin on July 23 and feature 14 leading Indian designers including Tarun Tahiliani, Ritu Kumar, Rimzim Dadu and Manish Malhotra. FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi with participating designers at Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 Late designer Rohit Bal's eponymous label will also be a part of the coveted fashion week.- EndsTrending Reel
Time of India
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Step away Prada, make way for Pharrell Williams as Desi ambassador
Mumbai: In the midst of the Prada-Kolhapuri chappal furore, the recent Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2026 show has been lauded for taking Indian inspiration through a truly global fashion route. Pharrell Williams , LV Men's creative director, turned his seven-day India visit in March-to New Delhi, Mumbai and Jaipur-into an immersive fashion moment at Paris's Centre Pompidou on June 24. From a Snakes & Ladders-themed runway conceptualised by architect Bijoy Jain to collaborating with music legend AR Rahman for the show's soundtrack, and a collection steeped in Indian craftsmanship , LV's show was all about respect and strategy. Every collaborator was acknowledged and credited. Dubai-based fashion writer Sujata Assomull, who tracks India's impact on the global luxury landscape, says that the message here was clear: India is no longer the distant muse or the luxury world's afterthought. "The Louis Vuitton show with Pharrell has been one of the most positive moves by a European house to talk about India's important role in global material culture," says Assomull. It's in stark contrast to the Prada-Kolhapuri controversy, where the fashion house has faced backlash for not giving credit where it's due. Gayatri Khanna, who is the chief executive of Milaaya Embroideries-an atelier headquartered in Mumbai but with offices in New York, Paris, Milan and London - has been talking about a Made in India tag. The company caters to several luxury houses across the globe. Hermes now puts the Made in India' tag on its ponchos, scarves and rugs. "When powerhouses like Louis Vuitton and Dior spotlight their Indian collaborators and inspirations, they don't just set a trend, but they help shift an entire industry's mindset," says Khanna. She calls Williams's show as significant for its visual homage to India and for publicly crediting the Indian artisans and ateliers involved. Brands like Dior have begun to understand this. Its collaboration with the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai signalled a celebration of Indian embroidery, as well as the community behind them, evident in their 2023 pre-fall show in Mumbai. Luxury brands have been wooing Indian customers, with Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin and even Valentino launching special edits. Gucci released limited edition 'Made for India' capsule collections back in 2011, the same year that Hermes released 28 saris for this market. Jean Paul Gaultier showed his love affair with India during his 2017 show at Paris Haute Couture Week, where he presented sari-inspired drapes. The recent inspiration was Alia Bhatt's Gucci lehenga-sari that she wore to Cannes this year. Williams, meanwhile, loves India. That was evident as he walked at the end of the show in track shorts and sweats, hands folded in a namaste to acknowledge the applause. Aptly called 'Paris to India', Williams was inspired by "the multifaceted sensibilities of present-day Indian sartorialism". The LV creative head said he was inspired by India's "colours". "You'll see turmeric. You'll see cinnamon. You'll see 'coffee indigo' denim," he told the fashion journal WWD backstage. For years, India's storied craftsmanship remained uncredited-often seen only as a workshop or as an exotic muse. But now, economic growth, digital adoption, younger clientele, growing appetite for luxury and an assertive consumer are powering it. India's luxury market, currently estimated at $17 billion, is forecast to reach $85 billion by 2030. Reliance Brands, with international luxury brands like Zegna, Canali, Tiffany & Co, Valentino, Tod's, Versace and Bottega Veneta, feels that the Indian consumer is no longer a passive recipient-they're informed and co-authoring the luxury narrative. An RBL spokesperson told ET: "Every detail of the LV show reflected a genuine intent to engage, not appropriate. And that's largely because Pharrell visited India; he listened, observed, absorbed nuance, and it showed. Cultural fluency like that isn't drawn from a mood board; it comes from true immersion."
Fibre2Fashion
3 days ago
- Business
- Fibre2Fashion
Can Prada-Kolhapuri row pave way for equitable engagement in fashion?
Amid mounting backlash over alleged cultural appropriation, Italian luxury fashion house Prada will hold a virtual meeting with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) on July 11, 2025, to explore a potential collaboration. If successful, this initiative could mark a rare instance of equitable engagement between global fashion brands and traditional artisans. The MACCIA formally addressed the issue in a letter to Prada, expressing dismay at the commercialisation of a heritage product without honouring the artisans responsible for it. These artisans have safeguarded the Kolhapuri tradition for generations. In response, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, acknowledged the Indian roots of the design and indicated that the product was still in its early design stages. He also welcomed 'a meaningful dialogue with local Indian artisans', as per global media reports. Prada-Kolhapuri row has reignited the debate on cultural appropriation in fashion, after the brand showcased sandals resembling India's traditional Kolhapuris. Following backlash, Prada will meet MACCIA on July 11, to explore a global collaboration with Indian artisans. If successful, the move could mark a turning point in fostering ethical engagement between fashion houses and craft communities. The move follows widespread outrage in India after Prada showcased 'toe ring leather sandals' at Milan Fashion Week last month. The design drew immediate comparisons to traditional Kolhapuri sandals—handcrafted leather footwear with centuries-old roots in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. The controversy has reignited the global debate on cultural appropriation in the fashion industry, highlighting the need for more ethical engagement with traditional crafts. Kolhapuri sandals are not only a cultural emblem but also carry historical and geographical significance. Recognised with a Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, these sandals date back to the 12th century. Handcrafted from leather and dyed using natural colours, they are known for their durability and suitability for India's climate. However, this is not an isolated incident. The fashion industry has seen a growing pattern of cultural appropriation this year. A viral TikTok trend dubbed the 'Scandinavian scarf' was quickly identified by South Asian influencers as a dupatta—a garment integral to South Asian women's attire for centuries. The trend, introduced without any historical context, was widely criticised for repackaging traditional South Asian fashion as a novel Western invention. On June 27, Dior presented a coat featuring mukaish embroidery—a traditional metallic threadwork from Lucknow—at a Paris runway show. Despite the elaborate use of Indian craftsmanship, Dior failed to credit the artisans, prompting further criticism for the erasure of cultural contributions. The Prada-Kolhapuri controversy may yet become a watershed moment. If the brand's proposed collaboration with Indian artisans materialises, it could pave the way for more ethical practices in fashion—where cultural exchange replaces exploitation, and credit is given where it is long overdue. Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KD)
Indian Express
4 days ago
- Indian Express
The Prada–Kolhapuri chappals controversy: A case study in ethical branding
(UPSC Ethics Simplified draws attention to topics related to applied ethics, especially those making headlines. Recently, UPSC has been focusing on contemporary issues and posing ethical questions to candidates. In the past, we have examined pollution, war, sports, finance, international relations, bureaucracy and judiciary through the lens of ethics. Today, Nanditesh Nilay, who writes fortnightly for UPSC Essentials, addresses another pressing issue — the Prada-Kolhapuri chappals controversy.) Let us remind ourselves what plagiarism, cheating, failing to give credit, theft, wrong intentions, self-centeredness, greed, and similar acts truly represent. Let us also reflect on those moments in life when our decisions lacked the guiding light of a moral compass. Yes, if someone is engaging in sophistry or behaving insidiously, how should we view their actions? These are important ethical questions that will keep testing us in different forms. A traditional Indian craft that left both an aesthetic and commercial footprint in Milan is hitting the headlines. These are the Kolhapuri chappals we all are familiar with. But what has disappointed many is that a well known brand, Prada failed to initially acknowledge the geographical origin and original artisans behind the Kolhapuri design. Instead of giving the due credit to the deserving, Prada added a vague note: 'Inspired by traditional Indian footwear.' On any ethics meter it is disrespectful and questions the integrity of an international brand. But this story is not new. We have heard musicians copying others' work, writers struggling with plagiarism accusations. The creative world has long battled issues of credit and originality. Today, we even have software to detect plagiarism and agencies to investigate such misconduct. So why is it so hard for people to think ethically before engaging in acts of malfeasance? Philosopher Immanuel Kant reminds us: 'In law, a man is guilty when he acts. In ethics, he is guilty when he thinks.' In a world of AI, where cheating has reached new heights, what happens to an individual's moral dilemma? The recent controversy around Italian brand Prada highlights this issue. At Milan Fashion Week, their showcased sandals featured an open-toe braided pattern almost identical to the traditional Kolhapuri sandals from Maharashtra and Karnataka. While Prada described the sandals, they failed to mention their Indian origins. The question is: Why is it so easy to copy and so difficult to give credit to the people or cultures behind an idea? Is AI making things easier while simultaneously encouraging a culture of ethical shortcuts? Has this 'cheating mindset' become a new kind of behavioural normalization? Yuval Noah Harari, a renowned historian and author, has offered thought-provoking views on AI and its implications for humanity. He sees AI as a transformative force—unlike previous technologies—because it can function autonomously, not just as a tool. While nuclear weapons depend on human action, AI can make decisions and generate ideas independently. This raises serious questions and concerns about control and accountability. Interestingly, Harari often refers to AI as an 'alien intelligence.' Why? Because AI evolves in its own direction. There is a strong possibility that it may soon surpass humans—not just in decision-making and creativity, but even in emotional influence. By 2030–2035, according to Harari, we could see 'super-intelligent' AI that fundamentally alters society. In fact, in many ways, it already has. We are aware that plagiarism and manipulation are at their peak. On top of that, AI is now performing the work of reasoning. AI may threaten democracy and human autonomy by manipulating information, shaping persuasive narratives, and enabling surveillance. This is one of Harari's key concerns. Ethical impact: it can erode trust and silence free expression—two values essential to democracy. Speaking of trust: Every time it is broken, so is the Rest's Model of decision-making. It is important for us to know that this model stands on four pillars: moral sensitivity, moral judgment, moral motivation, and moral action. Making decisions ethically is not rocket science. Simply, had Prada viewed its brand through the lens of public trust, it might have followed a morally sound decision-making process. What could have been the process? Identifying, assessing, and prioritizing the ethical implications, and then acting with integrity. But Prada failed. Most importantly it failed on the grounds of trust, which is the most important factor of credibility for brands. Result: its brand value suffers. Pause and ponder: Is simply enforcing ethics and values as a code of conduct or compliance enough? No. As a student of ethics, you must have known by now that true ethical behavior stems from human values. These human values are instilled within us – the individuals and institutions. Only then can ethics become a genuine societal norm. As Amitabh Bachchan said in the movie Suhag, while wearing Kolhapuri chappals: 'Dekhne mein nau, phatkē mein sau.' He meant that while they may look simple, Kolhapuris pack a powerful impact. That same impact may hit Prada — hard. Because, ultimately, when trust is lost, everything is lost. POST READ QUESTION: To what extent does the Prada–Kolhapuri chappals controversy highlight issues of cultural appropriation and ethical oversight in global branding? (The writer is the author of 'Being Good and Aaiye, Insaan Banaen', 'Ethikos: Stories Searching Happiness' and 'Kyon'. He teaches courses on and offers training in ethics, values and behaviour. He has been the expert/consultant to UPSC, SAARC countries, Civil services Academy, National Centre for Good Governance, Central Bureau of Investigation (CBI), Competition Commission of India (CCI), etc. He has PhD in two disciplines and has been a Doctoral Fellow in Gandhian Studies from ICSSR. His second PhD is from IIT Delhi on Ethical Decision Making among Indian Bureaucrats. He writes for the UPSC Ethics Simplified (concepts and caselets) fortnightly.) Subscribe to our UPSC newsletter and stay updated with the news cues from the past week. Stay updated with the latest UPSC articles by joining our Telegram channel – Indian Express UPSC Hub, and follow us on Instagram and X.
Time of India
27-06-2025
- Business
- Time of India
'The Prada paradox': Maharashtra artisans meet CM Fadnavis over 'Kolhapuri chappals' at fashion show; raise GI violation issue
Prada-Kolhapuri chappals NEW DELHI: When a global luxury house like Prada walked the Milan runway with what looked unmistakably like Kolhapuri chappals, priced at over Rs 2 lakh, it ought not to have sat well with the artisans who had handcrafted the original for generations. Artisans from Maharashtra have raised alarm over what they see as a clear violation of their geographical indication (GI) rights, after Prada featured chappal-style footwear in its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection without any nod to Kolhapur or its traditional craftsmen. The GI rights protect products that have a specific origin and possess qualities or a reputation linked to that location. In India, GI tags are granted under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik, who hails from Kolhapur, met chief minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday, leading a delegation of artisans. The group submitted a letter urging the state to act against what they called a cultural and commercial appropriation. Speaking to news agency PTI, Mahadik said the sandals showcased by Prada are unmistakably Kolhapuri in design, and are being sold at a staggering Rs 1.7 lakh to Rs 2.10 lakh per pair. "We want Prada to give the Kolhapuri identity to their product, and local artisans should get the revenue. If Prada gives us orders, we can manufacture for them. The Kolhapuri brand will reach globally," the BJP leader said. He added that such a collaboration would give artisans both recognition and sustainable income. Mahadik said a public interest litigation (PIL) would be filed in the high court, and he's seeking a meeting with Union Minister of Commerce and Industry Piyush Goyal to escalate the matter at the national level. In his letter to the chief minister, Mahadik noted that the Kolhapuri chappal received a GI tag from the Government of India in 2019 and that Prada's Milan presentation on June 23 lacked any reference to the source community. "This kind of commercial appropriation not only violates GI regulations but also threatens the livelihood and dignity of thousands of families involved in this traditional trade," he wrote. Kolhapuri chappals, open-toe leather sandals with braided designs, date back to the 12th century and are traditionally handcrafted in Kolhapur and nearby districts like Sangli, Satara, and Solapur. Mahadik has requested the state to raise the issue with the Centre for immediate intervention. He also called for the formation of a protective framework for GI-tagged products at the state level and urged that artisans be given legal and financial assistance in cases of international misuse. He claimed that following the backlash, Prada has taken down photos of the sandals from its official website.
