'The Prada paradox': Maharashtra artisans meet CM Fadnavis over 'Kolhapuri chappals' at fashion show; raise GI violation issue
NEW DELHI: When a global luxury house like Prada walked the Milan runway with what looked unmistakably like Kolhapuri chappals, priced at over Rs 2 lakh, it ought not to have sat well with the artisans who had handcrafted the original for generations.
Artisans from Maharashtra have raised alarm over what they see as a clear violation of their geographical indication (GI) rights, after Prada featured chappal-style footwear in its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection without any nod to Kolhapur or its traditional craftsmen.
The GI rights protect products that have a specific origin and possess qualities or a reputation linked to that location. In India, GI tags are granted under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
Bharatiya Janata Party
(BJP) Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik, who hails from Kolhapur, met chief minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday, leading a delegation of artisans. The group submitted a letter urging the state to act against what they called a cultural and commercial appropriation.
Speaking to news agency PTI, Mahadik said the sandals showcased by Prada are unmistakably Kolhapuri in design, and are being sold at a staggering Rs 1.7 lakh to Rs 2.10 lakh per pair.
"We want Prada to give the Kolhapuri identity to their product, and local artisans should get the revenue. If Prada gives us orders, we can manufacture for them. The Kolhapuri brand will reach globally," the BJP leader said.
He added that such a collaboration would give artisans both recognition and sustainable income.
Mahadik said a public interest litigation (PIL) would be filed in the high court, and he's seeking a meeting with Union Minister of Commerce and Industry Piyush Goyal to escalate the matter at the national level.
In his letter to the chief minister, Mahadik noted that the Kolhapuri chappal received a GI tag from the Government of India in 2019 and that Prada's Milan presentation on June 23 lacked any reference to the source community.
"This kind of commercial appropriation not only violates GI regulations but also threatens the livelihood and dignity of thousands of families involved in this traditional trade," he wrote.
Kolhapuri chappals, open-toe leather sandals with braided designs, date back to the 12th century and are traditionally handcrafted in Kolhapur and nearby districts like Sangli, Satara, and Solapur.
Mahadik has requested the state to raise the issue with the Centre for immediate intervention. He also called for the formation of a protective framework for GI-tagged products at the state level and urged that artisans be given legal and financial assistance in cases of international misuse.
He claimed that following the backlash, Prada has taken down photos of the sandals from its official website.
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