The Prada–Kolhapuri chappals controversy: A case study in ethical branding

Indian Express

a day ago

(UPSC Ethics Simplified draws attention to topics related to applied ethics, especially those making headlines. Recently, UPSC has been focusing on contemporary issues and posing ethical questions to candidates. In the past, we have examined pollution, war, sports, finance, international relations, bureaucracy and judiciary through the lens of ethics. Today, Nanditesh Nilay, who writes fortnightly for UPSC Essentials, addresses another pressing issue — the Prada-Kolhapuri chappals controversy.)
Let us remind ourselves what plagiarism, cheating, failing to give credit, theft, wrong intentions, self-centeredness, greed, and similar acts truly represent. Let us also reflect on those moments in life when our decisions lacked the guiding light of a moral compass.
Yes, if someone is engaging in sophistry or behaving insidiously, how should we view their actions? These are important ethical questions that will keep testing us in different forms.
A traditional Indian craft that left both an aesthetic and commercial footprint in Milan is hitting the headlines. These are the Kolhapuri chappals we all are familiar with. But what has disappointed many is that a well known brand, Prada failed to initially acknowledge the geographical origin and original artisans behind the Kolhapuri design. Instead of giving the due credit to the deserving, Prada added a vague note: 'Inspired by traditional Indian footwear.' On any ethics meter it is disrespectful and questions the integrity of an international brand.
But this story is not new. We have heard musicians copying others' work, writers struggling with plagiarism accusations. The creative world has long battled issues of credit and originality. Today, we even have software to detect plagiarism and agencies to investigate such misconduct. So why is it so hard for people to think ethically before engaging in acts of malfeasance?
Philosopher Immanuel Kant reminds us: 'In law, a man is guilty when he acts. In ethics, he is guilty when he thinks.'
In a world of AI, where cheating has reached new heights, what happens to an individual's moral dilemma?
The recent controversy around Italian brand Prada highlights this issue. At Milan Fashion Week, their showcased sandals featured an open-toe braided pattern almost identical to the traditional Kolhapuri sandals from Maharashtra and Karnataka. While Prada described the sandals, they failed to mention their Indian origins. The question is: Why is it so easy to copy and so difficult to give credit to the people or cultures behind an idea?
Is AI making things easier while simultaneously encouraging a culture of ethical shortcuts? Has this 'cheating mindset' become a new kind of behavioural normalization?
Yuval Noah Harari, a renowned historian and author, has offered thought-provoking views on AI and its implications for humanity. He sees AI as a transformative force—unlike previous technologies—because it can function autonomously, not just as a tool. While nuclear weapons depend on human action, AI can make decisions and generate ideas independently. This raises serious questions and concerns about control and accountability.
Interestingly, Harari often refers to AI as an 'alien intelligence.' Why? Because AI evolves in its own direction. There is a strong possibility that it may soon surpass humans—not just in decision-making and creativity, but even in emotional influence.
By 2030–2035, according to Harari, we could see 'super-intelligent' AI that fundamentally alters society. In fact, in many ways, it already has.
We are aware that plagiarism and manipulation are at their peak. On top of that, AI is now performing the work of reasoning. AI may threaten democracy and human autonomy by manipulating information, shaping persuasive narratives, and enabling surveillance. This is one of Harari's key concerns.
Ethical impact: it can erode trust and silence free expression—two values essential to democracy.
Speaking of trust: Every time it is broken, so is the Rest's Model of decision-making. It is important for us to know that this model stands on four pillars: moral sensitivity, moral judgment, moral motivation, and moral action.
Making decisions ethically is not rocket science. Simply, had Prada viewed its brand through the lens of public trust, it might have followed a morally sound decision-making process. What could have been the process? Identifying, assessing, and prioritizing the ethical implications, and then acting with integrity. But Prada failed. Most importantly it failed on the grounds of trust, which is the most important factor of credibility for brands. Result: its brand value suffers.
Pause and ponder: Is simply enforcing ethics and values as a code of conduct or compliance enough? No. As a student of ethics, you must have known by now that true ethical behavior stems from human values. These human values are instilled within us – the individuals and institutions. Only then can ethics become a genuine societal norm.
As Amitabh Bachchan said in the movie Suhag, while wearing Kolhapuri chappals:
'Dekhne mein nau, phatkē mein sau.'
He meant that while they may look simple, Kolhapuris pack a powerful impact.
That same impact may hit Prada — hard. Because, ultimately, when trust is lost, everything is lost.
POST READ QUESTION:
To what extent does the Prada–Kolhapuri chappals controversy highlight issues of cultural appropriation and ethical oversight in global branding?
(The writer is the author of 'Being Good and Aaiye, Insaan Banaen', 'Ethikos: Stories Searching Happiness' and 'Kyon'. He teaches courses on and offers training in ethics, values and behaviour. He has been the expert/consultant to UPSC, SAARC countries, Civil services Academy, National Centre for Good Governance, Central Bureau of Investigation (CBI), Competition Commission of India (CCI), etc. He has PhD in two disciplines and has been a Doctoral Fellow in Gandhian Studies from ICSSR. His second PhD is from IIT Delhi on Ethical Decision Making among Indian Bureaucrats. He writes for the UPSC Ethics Simplified (concepts and caselets) fortnightly.)
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