I've Lived in France for 10+ Years—Here's How to Visit Paris on a Budget

Travel + Leisure

a day ago

Despite living in France for nearly a dozen years, I still swoon every time I see the Eiffel Tower lit up. Calling Paris romantic is an understatement—the city has inspired poets and artists, who still pilgrimage here today in search of inspiration that can be found in nearly every turn, in every arrondissement.
The city is a must-visit destination for many, but you don't need to shell out on splashy hotels and haute cuisine to experience the best Paris has to offer. A fresh baguette and beautiful bottle of wine on the Seine can be just as memorable as a Michelin-starred meal. With the right planning, you can have the trip of a lifetime in Paris without breaking the bank—here's everything you need to know. A busy Paris park on a sunny day.
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While it's always a good idea to visit Paris, some seasons are busier than others, particularly around the end of May during Roland-Garros (the French Open), the summer months, and around Christmas and New Year's. While hotels and airfare may be lower in the winter, Paris can be wet and cold—not ideal for strolling and sightseeing, but great for museums and cozying up in warm cafes. 'To keep to a budget, timing is key,' says Mark Bonte, co-founder and CEO of French Side Travel. 'Booking your trip at least six months in advance means you're getting not only better availability for top guides and iconic hotels, but better pricing as well.'
It seems like my social calendar is consistently packed with friends visiting the city from May through July—and this is actually the time of year I skip town to avoid the crowds. This is also the most expensive time to visit; those looking to save money should aim for the shoulder seasons in October and November or February and March.
As a travel writer who plans trips that revolve entirely around restaurants, I'm often asked the best places to try in Paris and when to book. Even in low season, Paris has become busy enough that nearly every sought-after restaurant requires a reservation—especially classics like Le Bistrot Paul Bert, which only accepts reservations via phone.
This isn't New York, though. Unless you're planning a splurge-worthy meal at triple Michelin-starred Plénitude, whose waiting list is months long, you can reserve three weeks to a month in advance at most. And while most spots are known to shut in August for summer holidays, this is slowly changing as more restaurants keep their doors open or host pop-ups with guest chefs. I'm one of the few people in Paris who actually wants to be in town this time of year, enjoying long, balmy summer days sipping rosé on rooftop terraces or sprawled on a blanket sunbathing in my neighborhood park, Buttes Chaumont. The exterior of Palais Royal.
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Expedia travel expert Melanie Fish recommends booking flights on a Sunday, which can save up to 17 percent compared to Friday bookings, and departing on a Thursday instead of a Sunday, which also saves around 17 percent. If you're flexible, Fish says you can score deals on last-minute trips as well. Last year, the sweet spot was around 60 days, but this year, the best deals (around 10 percent off) have been between 18 and 29 days out. 'If this is cutting it too close, use Price Drop Protection on the Expedia app,' she advises. 'Add it to your flight booking and get an automatic refund if the price of your flight drops on Expedia after you've booked.'
Business-class-only La Compagnie offers daily flights between New York and Paris, with round-trip prices starting at $2,500—a fraction of the cost of other business-class fares. Another budget-friendly option is low-cost carrier French Bee, with one-way fares from New York to Paris Orly starting at $118. Air France also has its twice-annual Le Rendez-Vous promotional periods in late summer or early fall and winter, and it's when travelers can find some of the best prices of the year.
'For travelers looking to experience Paris in style without splurging, winter and the shoulder seasons are ideal,' says Christian Vernet, CEO of La Compagnie, who recommends booking two to three months in advance and staying flexible with your travel dates. 'Our best deals to Paris are typically available for travel in January, February, and again in the fall, particularly from late September through November.'
By using tools like price tracking on the Expedia app or setting up Google Flights alerts, you can compare prices and snag the best one when a deal pops up. With Expedia's Flight Deals tool, for example, you can search for flights departing from your home airport anywhere in the world and see where to fly for less. Right now, it's showing round-trip flights to Paris from New York JFK in August for around $438 (40 percent less than the typical price), while round-trip flights from Los Angeles are 45 percent less than usual, around $681.
Mr. Tripper/Courtesy of Château des Fleurs
'The beauty of Paris is that it isn't a weather-dependent destination—no matter the time of year, there is something to do and reason to find yourself in the City of Light,' says Bonte. "Travelers are often faced with inflated prices because they don't know where to look and go to what they have heard of or what pops up on a quick search—and these properties will often be more expensive due to their brand recognition.'
Bonte suggests that to get the most out of your money, look at boutique hotels like Hôtel La Fantaisie, Hôtel Hana, and Château des Fleurs. Visiting in off or low season months like early December or January through March (outside of events like Fashion Week) is also when you'll find lower hotel rates, especially at some of the more sought-after five-star and Palace properties.
August is when locals flee the city and many restaurants shut for summer holidays, but it's also 'a rare opportunity to experience Paris at a gentler pace,' says Magalie Murillo, general manager of SO/ Paris, adding that hotel rates are lower during this time. 'With many Parisians away, the city reveals a more intimate side, ideal for wandering through the quiet streets of the Marais, enjoying riverside walks along the Seine, or admiring Notre Dame without the crowds.'
Airbnbs can be a budget-friendly alternative to a hotel, especially for groups or families traveling together. Similar to hotels, look outside of the landmark-heavy arrondissements and popular neighborhoods like Le Marais, opting instead for an area like Bastille or Belleville, where you'll still be centrally located but may find better deals.
Ask any local the quickest way to get around Paris, and they'll all give you the same response: le métro . A single ticket costs €2.50 and is valid for two hours (as long as you're connecting and not leaving the network) on the metro, bus, funicular, express tram, and RER (suburban railway system). If you download the Bonjour RATP app, you can purchase tickets at a reduced price and get the latest updated information on any service changes or strikes that may be taking place. If you're planning a full day of sightseeing, opt for a one-day Navigo unlimited travel pass, which costs €12 a day and offers access across the Paris region.
You can also purchase airport tickets through the app, as well as at ticket booths in both Paris Orly and Charles de Gaulle. Tickets cost €13 and include access on the RER B from Châtelet in central Paris, as well as Metro Line 14, which runs to Orly Airport and connects to major metro stations like Gare de Lyon, Châtelet, and Pyramides (near the Louvre and Tuileries Garden).
If you're comfortable on two wheels, you'll find the Vélib' city bike stations scattered all around the city with options for a single ride (€3 for a classic bike or e-bike for up to 45 minutes), 24-hour pass (€5 for a classic bike or €10 for an e-bike), or three-day pass for €20.
Uber and Bolt are the main rideshare apps in Paris, and while prices surge during major events like Fashion Week or when it's heavily raining, you can snag deals and price reductions (particularly on Bolt), which can make it a more affordable option than a traditional G7 taxi. I've found the Citymapper app to be the most accurate when it comes to navigating Paris, since it pulls in the time and price for each mode of transport—and helps you map out the quickest route on the metro or bus. A busy street in Paris with outdoor dining.
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'If you're willing to shell out a bit more, one of the best ways to get a taste of Paris's famous fine dining without the exorbitant price tag is to take advantage of the weekday prix-fixe lunch,' says Emily Monaco, a Paris-based journalist who runs culinary tours and plans bespoke itineraries for visitors in Paris. 'Chantoiseau's €29 lunch deal is a total steal given the quality and precision—not to mention the address in the heart of Montmartre.'
La formule , a prix-fixe, seasonally driven menu of two or three courses, is offered at some of the city's buzziest bistros, like natural wine favorites Café les deux Gares, Paloma Belleville, and Le Maquis—and typically costs around €18 for a starter, main, and dessert. If you want to indulge in a splashier meal at a Michelin-starred restaurant, reserve for lunch, when you'll still get the full experience but at a more accessible price point. At one-starred Substance in the 16th arrondissement, for example, a three-course lunch is €68.
'There are loads of restaurants in Paris that won't break the bank, like Brasserie des Prés, a charming néo-brasserie located down a picturesque cobbled street just off Boulevard Saint-Germain,' says Monaco, adding that the poireaux vinaigrette (leeks vinaigrette) with toasted hazelnuts is her favorite in Paris. 'The dining room is built around one of the few remaining pieces of Paris's medieval fortifying wall, and they even make their own ice cream in-house! I also love the Lebanese sandwiches from Le Cèdre just off Place de la Contrescarpe in the Latin Quarter and the delicious Thai food at Funky Ba—you can easily eat well for under €15 at either spot.'
What started in the 19th century for the working class to eat affordably, the bouillon concept has more recently been revived in the city thanks to Art Nouveau-style spots like Bouillon Julien and Bouillon Pigalle, with its retro red leather banquettes and mirrored walls. The philosophy is still the same: French classics like steak-frites and Burgundian escargots bathed in garlic and parsley served all day long. Prices start as low as €2.50 for eggs mayonnaise and €13 for duck confit with fries, with a pitcher of wine equivalent to the size of a bottle for around €12.
'I love to assemble a picnic of top-notch produce to enjoy somewhere beautiful,' says Monaco, adding that the Canal Saint-Martin is a popular spot among locals, especially in summer when picnic tables are set up. 'I get cheese from Fromagerie Fernin, which specializes in phenomenal raw milk specialties and loads of rare goat cheeses ideal for summer. Pair them with a bottle of natural wine from Les Caves Saint-Martin, fresh berries from locavore grocery store satiō, and organic sourdough from bakery Sain, and you'll have a Michelin-worthy picnic on your hands.'
There's a reason why Paris is a city for flâneurs —its leafy boulevards and sprawling parks are designed for strolling. 'Something we suggest to most of our clients is a gourmet walking tour of one of Paris's iconic neighborhoods,' says Bonte. 'Rather than planning a more typical walking tour followed by a separate lunch, you can get two in one and engage all your senses on your visit to Le Marais, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, or even Paris's covered passages.'
If you're planning to check multiple museums off your list, the Paris Museum Pass offers access to some of the most famous in the city, including the Musée du Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, and even the Château de Versailles (a two-day pass costs €70). Museums in Paris are generally on the more affordable side, although some require you to book for a specific time. Tickets for the Fondation Louis Vuitton are €16, but popular exhibits like David Hockney 25 require reserving a few days in advance since slots fill quickly. When my parents visited, we skipped the Louvre in favor of smaller museums and galleries like the Musée Gustave Moreau, meaning fewer crowds and time waiting in line—plus, tickets are nearly half the price.
One of the best ways to get acquainted with the city is from the water, but instead of booking a pricey dinner cruise, I'll often take friends in town on one of the iconic Bateaux Mouches, a €17, 70-minute boat ride along the Seine that passes landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame. Another option that debuted this summer: swimming in the Seine, with three new sites paying tribute to the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics.
As a fashion capital, Paris is a city people visit specifically for shopping the gilded grands magasins department stores like Le Bon Marché and Galeries Lafayette, as well as haute flagships like Hermès and Louis Vuitton. While the tax refund on items from the same brand purchased over a maximum of three days and totaling €100+ is one way to save on bigger-ticket items, the best time to snag deals is during the twice-annual sale season. Taking place in early January and late June, les soldes is the French equivalent of Black Friday, with prices reaching nearly 70 to 80 percent off as they drop in stages over the course of four weeks.
If you have time for a day trip, The Bicester Collection's La Vallée Village is a destination in itself, with more than 110 outlets from designers like Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Chloé, and Prada offering deals up to 70 percent off. Located about 40 minutes from the city center, you can hop on a direct Shopping Express shuttle from Bercy in East Paris (€25 round-trip) or take the RER A to the Val d'Europe station. While shopping, you'll be treated to some of the best of Paris eats, from the Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse gourmet chocolate shop to Menu Palais, a restaurant serving up reimagined French classics designed by three-starred chef Christian Le Squer, of Le Cinq at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris. The Village is also just five minutes from Disneyland Paris, if you plan to combine shopping and a day at the theme park.