A summer of fine dining and rugged beaches in Mykonos

The National

4 days ago

Famous for its windmills, vibrant nightlife and whitewashed charm, Mykonos is a seductive blend of upscale luxury and rugged beaches. This is an island where it is entirely possible to arrive by helicopter, go to beach clubs or shop at high-end stores in the morning, and visit ancient ruins and cites of great historic significance in the afternoon.
Heading to Mykonos may feel of the moment, but in truth, people have been flocking to the Aegean island for centuries. First home to the Ionians – one of the four main Ancient Greek tribes – it has been inhabited since about the 11th century BC, and due to its position, has been invaded by the Romans and the Byzantines, and was ravaged by the Catalans in the late 13th century. It has also been ruled by both the Venetians and later the Ottomans.
More recently, it became something of a retreat for artists and bohemians in the 1930s. By the 1960s, it was a favourite of European elite looking to let down their hair amid the picturesque cobbled streets and turquoise blue bays. After Santorini, Mykonos is Greece's second most popular spot.
Yet this is not a land of package tours, but rather where the well-heeled go to unwind, and embrace the rich culture and stunning landscapes via a generous helping of top-notch restaurants, five-star hotels and Ibiza-style beach clubs.
Where to stay
The island prides itself on its upscale feel, with a plethora of high-end hotels on hand.
One of the newest, and the only five-star destination within Mykonos Town (also known as Chora, the Greek word for town, and more commonly referred to as the Old Town thanks to its historic charm), and it's a short stroll from its more traditional corner.
Slightly further out, there is five-star Santa Marina, a Luxury Collection Resort, which has its own private beach close to Ornos beach. Overlooking the same bay is Once in Mykonos, an adults-only hotel that has swim-up rooms and floating sun beds for ultimate post-party recovery.
Cali Mykonos, meanwhile, is removed from the bustle of town, at the secluded beach of Kalafati. Boasting its own beach, it has a private helipad, plus yacht charters perfect for island hopping between nearby Delos and Naxos.
Where to eat
Ranging from street-side places selling famous Greek gyros – seasoned meat wrapped in pita bread – to upscale eateries, Mykonos is better known for its foodie scene.
La Petite Maison opened in 2024 at Anandes Hotel, serving its sharing-style French cuisine at its poolside venue. Menu highlights include marinated lamb cutlets with olive, aubergine caviar and pine nuts, and burrata with cherry tomatoes and basil. A short walk away is Matsuhisa Mykonos, by chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The first of his four Greek outposts, the restaurant celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. Serving favourites such as rock shrimp salad, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno, miso-marinated black cod and tuna tacos, in-house DJ Arman Nafeei ensures there are tunes to accompany your poolside dinner.
Yevo, by chef Aggelos Bakopoulos, is at Bill&Coo Mykonos, a five-star hotel, located a three-minute walk from town. Specialising in farm-to-table ingredients, it offers tasting menus of three, five or seven courses, which include dishes such as red shrimp with pistachio, arugula and shallots, or quail with beetroot, kumquats and spices.
In the Old Town, there is Noema Bar and Restaurant, hidden away in a courtyard. Focused on contemporary Greek cuisine, this open-air gem offers dishes such as baby plum tomatoes with home-made unsalted cheese and thyme oil, or slow-roast dolmades, stuffed with beef and rice, and served with Greek yoghurt lemon sauce.
Things to do
Mykonos is a place to meander and soak in the atmosphere – take joy in getting happily lost in the maze of winding alleyways. The main plaza, for example, has a bust commemorating the Greek heiress Manto Mavrogenous, who during the Greek War of Independence in the 1800s, helped Aegean islanders fight off pirates and then Ottoman rule by funding sailors and ships from her own pocket.
Take time to visit some of the 16 windmills on the island, some of which date back to the 16th century, built by then-ruling Venetians to mill wheat shipped in from Syria and the Anatolian tablelands. Seven sit above the bustling chora and are a famous addition to the skyline. All of them were built facing north, to exploit the famous "meltemi" wind that blows across the island, giving Mykonos the nickname of "the island of the winds".
Another throwback to Venetian rule is "Little Venice" – a parade of handsome, balconied buildings that reach down into the sea – named for its resemblance to the Italy city. Its Greek name is Alefkandra, although its nickname suffices when asking directions. The now-ruined Panagia Paraportiani castle, also known as the Venetian Castle, once played an important role in safeguarding the island.
Exploring the island is a must – not only are there other ruins to explore, such as Castle Panigirakis at Ano Mera – there are plenty of beaches to enjoy. Thanks to the hilly topography, a car or quad bike is the best, and safest, way to get around.
A short boat journey away is the island of Delos, which has an abundance of ancient Greek ruins. A Unesco World Heritage Site, this is where the Titan goddess Leto is said to have given birth to the twins Apollo and Artemis of Greek mythology.
The best beaches and beach clubs
For beaches, the island has a wealth of different experiences on offer. Glyfadi beach, for example, is popular with locals and families. And those looking to make the most of the island's wind should head to Kalafati beach in the south, which is full of windsurfers.
For a more private day, head east at either Kato Tigani beach or Pano Tigani beaches, which are rocky and don't have any sun loungers or restaurants. If you are the type who enjoys packing a picnic and heading off the beaten track, then these are for you.
Foodies should look up Ornos beach, in the south west, which is packed with restaurants such as Buddha Bar, BeefBar and home-grown favourite Apaggio, while Psarou Beach in the south is home to yachts and swanky bars. Its helipad gives an indication of the wealth of the clientele it attracts. Nammos Village is a short stroll away and filled with stores such as Loro Piana, Dior, Gucci and Chanel. Picture-postcard lovely, this is where the well-heeled hang out.
Paradise Beach is where lazy days slide into late night parties. Situated on the south coast of the island, it has Paradise Beach Club and Tropicana that draw international DJs each summer.
Next door is Super Paradise Beach, home to the beach club JackieO', named for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, whose visit to the island in the 1960s helped put it on the map. An open-door policy creates a fun atmosphere.
Paraga beach meanwhile, has a more boho-chic vibe. The southernmost beach on the island, it has laid back venues such as SantAnna or Kalua, with cabanas overlooking the neighbouring islands of Delos, Paros and Naxos.
A favourite with locals and visitors alike since 2010, Alemagou on Ftelia beach provides excellent food and laid-back beach access in a small but lovely bay that is filled with boho families by day, and free-spirited party goers by night.