Why This Kolhapuri Di? The Story Of Prada's Chappal Chori

NDTV

19 hours ago

Amidst the ongoing Prada Kolhapuri row, the Italian luxury brand recently faced legal action for selling its Indian-inspired flat leather sandals for Rs 1.2 lakh a pair. They now face demands to "pay back Indians". NDTV speaks to industry expert and Kolhapuri footwear brand owner, Aparajita Toor, to trace the journey of Kolhapuris through the years. This summer's hottest sandals, after all, are the Kolhapuris.
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The History Of Kolhapuri Chappals
Kolhapuri chappals go back to the 12th century Kolhapur in Maharashtra, where artisans painstakingly craft these open sandals out of leather.
Both King Bijjala and his prime minister, Basavanna, have been credited with encouraging the production of these footwear pieces to support local artisans.
In their nascent years, Kolhapuri chappals were known by a couple of different names, generally based on their village of origin, such as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali and Pukri.
By the 18th century, Kolhapuri chappals had become popular, and became known by their present name.
Today, Kolhapuris are world-famous for their unique design and intricate handwork, which involves vegetable-tanned leather, braiding techniques, unique designs, and exceptional craftsmanship.
It's precisely these qualities that have led to Kolhapuris being included in the footwear lineup of global luxury brands such as Prada, YSL, and more. What's more, in 2019, the Kolhapuri chappal was granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, officially recognising its origin and unique characteristics.
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Is The Kolhapuri A 'Trend'?
NDTV spoke to Aparajita Toor, who runs a Kolhapuri footwear label favoured by Bollywood celebrities, named after herself. It was Aparajita Toor's undying love for Kolhapuris that made her realise the inherent need for comfortable, expressive, and wearable footwear for women, leading to the inception of the Aprajita Toor brand, a label symbolic of India's rich cultural heritage.
Aparajita tells NDTV about where, when and how the Kolhapuri 'trend' began, according to her.
"To call it a 'trend' almost feels limiting. The Kolhapuri isn't a passing style; it's a 12th-century heirloom craft, rooted in tradition, history, and generational skill. If anything, it was never out of fashion; it was simply waiting to be re-seen, re-styled, and re-celebrated," Toor tells NDTV.
Aparajita says that the Kolhapuri silhouette is timeless, and that she knew it could walk further.
"The craft has always been here, quietly holding its ground through generations. What's changed is the lens. The recent spotlight isn't because the silhouette is new; it's because the narrative around it is finally shifting. People are beginning to ask the right questions: Why hasn't this heritage craft been given the credit it so deeply deserves? It's not a trend revival. It's a long-overdue recognition of legacy," says Toor.
Pride, Patience, And Wisdom
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For every artisan who crafts a Kolhapuri chappal, it comes with patience, pride, and wisdom.
"For the artisans, every Kolhapuri is the fruit of labor, not just of hands, but of heart. It's crafted with deep patience, quiet pride, and generational wisdom. While the design may appear simple, it demands an extraordinary eye for detail and a steady hand trained in caution. Every stitch, every cut, every curve is intentional," says Aparajita Toor.
She adds, "It's not just footwear. It's legacy, shaped by those who've spent a lifetime perfecting what others may overlook. The Kolhapuri isn't just a sandal; it's a living legacy. A symbol of heritage, skill, and storytelling, passed down through generations of master artisans."
The Kolhapuri's moment on the global stage is a reflection of rich artistic lineage, says Toor.
"Its silhouette speaks of timeless design, while its making reflects the kind of craftsmanship that the world is only now beginning to truly value."
But the lack of credit is hurtful, of course.
"It's always exciting to see Indian crafts make it to international mood boards, but what's disheartening is when they're showcased without context. Borrowing art forms is part of global fashion's evolution, but not acknowledging their roots is where it becomes problematic. We've seen this pattern before, where rich, centuries-old crafts are reimagined by luxury houses without so much as a mention of their origin, legacy, or the hands that shaped them," says Aparajita.
"Kolhapuris carry the weight of heritage, of artisan communities, of regional identity. Showcasing them without the right narrative does a disservice to the very essence of what makes them iconic," adds the designer.
"We've seen this before, moments where Indian art and craft are borrowed, styled into seasonal collections, and then left behind until the next revival. But what's hopeful now is a growing consciousness, a shift from consumption to conversation, from appropriation to appreciation. Where is it headed? Hopefully, towards deeper storytelling, sustained recognition, and a place in fashion that isn't just seasonal, but sacred," Toor signs off.
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Prada Dragged To Court Over Kolhapuri Row
The Kolhapuri chappal row has now escalated to a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) filed in the Bombay High Court, demanding that Prada pay monetary compensation to the footwear's artisans for allegedly copying their design. The petitioner, Ganesh Hingmire, an intellectual property advocate, notes that while Prada has accepted that its collection is inspired by Indians, this acknowledgment surfaced only after widespread backlash.
The petition reads, "The Kolhapuri chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra and has special public sentiments attached to it. The brand has privately accepted that its collection is 'inspired by Indian artisans'; however, this acknowledgment surfaced only after facing widespread backlash on various social media platforms. This acknowledgment was given to a private entity and not to the applicant, makers of Kolhapuri chappal, Geographical Indication (GI) Registry, government, or the public at large."
Ganesh Hingmire adds, "The brand has not yet issued any formal apology along with damages, compensation, and an entitled remedy, and the statement appears to be merely a superficial attempt to deflect criticism."
While high-fashion brands appropriating Indian crafts and designs is nothing new, the hope is that Prada pays back. For the pride and patience that Kolhapuris are created with.