Domestic Quiet Luxury brand: What is market language if not your own voice?

Tatler Asia

11 hours ago

Ideal and reality
Above Loro Piana Spring/Summer 2025 Collection promotional campaign (photo: Loro Piana)
Quiet Luxury, despite its discreet facade, is a commanding yet unspoken expression of the elite. Eschewing loud logos or bold hues, it appeals through exceptional fabrics, clean silhouettes, pure minimalism and a near-bespoke feel. It is the kind of luxury discernible only to those beyond the need to declare status. These are the individuals who walk into a grand occasion in a look that bears no overt branding, yet every detail emanates quiet confidence and refinement.
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Above CHANEL Spring/Summer 2025 Collection promotional campaign (photo: CHANEL)
Yet within the context of the Vietnamese market, quiet luxury remains a distant concept. Here, luxury is not merely a coat or handbag, but a social signifier. A CHANEL bag, a Max Mara coat, a pair of Bottega Veneta shoes, they serve as declarations of class, influence and standing. For many Vietnamese fashion lovers, the logo continues to be the most legible language in the high-end fashion space.
Above Max Mara Spring/Summer 2024 Collection promotional campaign (photo: Max Mara)
According to a report by FiinGroup, Vietnam's fashion market is projected to reach $3.5 billion by 2025, with an annual growth rate of 9–10 per cent. This reflects a healthy momentum for local fashion. Over 200 international brands, ranging from mid-tier to luxury, currently operate in key cities. Domestic labels are not only contending with peers in their segment, but also with global powerhouses.
Above Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2025 Collection promotional campaign (photo: Bottega Veneta)
Although Vietnam has many wealthy yet discreet high-end customers, the segment that truly understands and is willing to invest in quiet luxury remains too narrow to sustain a purely minimalist luxury brand. This presents a considerable challenge for any designer pursuing this path within the country. The power of storytelling
In the fertile landscape of quiet luxury, Vietnam holds rich creative promise, with names that have made a mark both at home and abroad. Among them are Nguyen Cong Tri, revered as the 'big brother' of Vietnamese fashion, for his aesthetic and artisanal design language; Lam Gia Khang, whose minimalist sensibility blends East–West inspirations; and Cuong Dam, with a philosophy grounded in 'minimalism for maximalism'. These designers entered the scene with a bold, singular vision: no logos, no gimmicks, no visual flamboyance—just premium materials, refined tailoring and a neutral palette infused with European elegance.
Above Singer Ho Ngoc Ha wears designs by DANGHAIYEN (photo: DANGHAIYEN)
With prices starting from VND8 million per piece, quiet luxury brands do not seek mass appeal. They cater to an affluent, discerning clientele who favour understatement. Yet those very strengths become fragile when tested in the realities of the market.
Above Singers Bich Phuong, Huong Giang and Co Em Trendy wear minimalist designs by DANGHAIYEN (photo: DANGHAIYEN)
DANGHAIYEN offers a cautionary tale. Its decline stemmed not only from an unprepared market but also from a development strategy that lacked firm direction. In the high-end segment, a loyal customer base is essential. While the clientele exists, they still gravitate towards international labels with recognisable branding. The audience truly fluent in minimalist fashion remains too small to sustain commercial viability. Quiet Luxury in Vietnam still requires time and trust to cultivate a community. This is something the brand had little chance to fully develop.
Founder Dang Hai Yen spoke candidly with Tatler about the decision to cease operations:
'The closure of DANGHAIYEN coincides with the 10-year milestone of my career. It wasn't a decision made lightly, especially since the brand carries my most personal imprint. Running a fashion business professionally and to standard is not as simple as following your passion. I learned that during a time when I felt lost. When it's dark and you're unsure of your direction, it's best to stop, light a fire to warm yourself, rest—so that the next day, whether stormy or sunny, you can begin again in the best possible condition. After many years in operation, I feel it's time to pause and reassess how the market has evolved.'
Above Resort Collection 2025 (photo: DANGHAIYEN)
DANGHAIYEN's departure from the domestic scene stands as a quiet reminder to those dreaming of carving out space in Vietnam's quiet luxury realm. In a market where worth is still often measured by outward form, silence, however beautiful, must be shaped into a clear and memorable story. Only then can a name evoke not just aesthetic, but an enduring design philosophy. This is the lasting power that international quiet luxury brands have built and preserved for decades, if not centuries.
'I've never been one to rely on gimmicks to promote the brand. The decision to close DANGHAIYEN followed six months of discussion among the leadership team. We always begin by looking inward. We are businesspeople, and our approach is from a management perspective. I don't want to point fingers at external factors. Of course, those elements matter, but more than anything, a brand must have a clear orientation and a robust communication strategy,' added Dang Hai Yen.
Running a fashion business professionally and to industry standards is far more complex than simply following your passion.
- Dang Hai Yen, Founder of DANGHAIYEN -
Above Resort Collection 2025 (photo: DANGHAIYEN)
More than a fashion aesthetic, quiet luxury is a philosophy of life, a declaration of inner refinement and value beyond appearance. Yet in a market still dominated by visual impact, quiet luxury cannot survive on beautiful ideals or innovative design alone. It demands a comprehensive ecosystem: from nuanced positioning and strategic communication to a genuine connection with local cultural identity.